Well it’s actually the end of January now but I’m going to try to get my blog up to date, just touching on the highlights.
I finally had my first surfing lesson from Ross. One day when I was over at Ross’ house (he lives right on the ocean) the surf was perfect ie not too high for a beginner but not so small that you’d freeze to death waiting for a wave. I put on my wetsuit and two bathing caps and headed over to the beach. Ross took a short board and I took a long one as they are supposed to be easier.
We walked, dove and then paddled out past the breaking surf and almost right away I caught a wave! I just stayed lying down the first time and made it most of the way into the beach. The next few waves I caught I managed to get up on my knees with my hips straight. It turned out not to be scary because you are in front of the wave you’re riding so you can’t see it coming down on you. That was a pleasant surprise. So the next wave I caught, I decided to try to stand up. Unfortunately my beginners luck didn’t continue and as soon as I stood up I fell off. It’s quite a whomp on the chest when that happens!
By that time the surf was bigger and it was really hard to get back out again. Ross and I traded boards then and I gave the short one a go. After several tries, I still hadn’t managed to even catch a wave much less get up on my knees. I was pretty tired by then so we called it a day. I’m sure looking forward to the next time. Maybe I’ll manage to stand up for a few seconds!